Dobrý den! (= That’s hello in Czech, one of the grand total of two phrases I managed to retain. (Hello and Thank You, the best to learn.) Prague was lovely in a Gothic, overcast way, a very romantic combination of the City of a Hundred Spires in typically blah winter weather. Thank goodness it rained only on the last day and the sleet wasn’t too heavy for take-off.
My knowledge of the Czech Republic before going there was limited to being able to name Smetana, Dvorak, Janacek, Kundera and Kafka as nationals; a vague memory of Czech Sudetenland in the Munich Agreement, Prague Spring and Soviet oppression. Seeing as how we skipped all, but all museums and exhibitions, that knowledge remains pitifully limited. Haha. We decided that the money would be better spent on food, a plan that we put into action with a vengeance – I don’t think we stopped eating those three days. Gluttonous philistines, yes, but why the strained finances?? Because I’d forgotten to withdraw my share of the money in the rush to the airport in Paris, me fearing that we’d miss the flight. We were about hmm, half an hour early. Sigh. “Kancheong spider” indeed.
The 1.5-hour flight to Prague was remarkably uneventful as I pretended to be the glamorous, jaded jetsetter I regrettably am not. The cool non-excitement continued until we touched down and Smetana’s Má vlast (My Country) – Vltava started playing: hearing his rousing, nationalist symphonic poem over the crackly airplane intercom suddenly made everything Czech seem violently interesting…
Which would explain my nearly 300 photos of starkly mundane objects, such as the bus seat covers and the interior of the metro in Prague. They were so very uniquely Czech!.. In a way replicated the world over. Haha. Sorting through the photos was a trial of patience this time, but here’re some of the better ones from three days of traipsing through the streets of Prague as a khaki marshmallow in jeans and sneakers.


The hotel was very decent with newly-furnished rooms and a jolly breakfasting area. Breakfast each day was a feast of sausages and eggs, cereal, cakes, bread, et cetera, et cetera. After eating, we’d stumble out into the cold and drag our distended tummies around Prague’s attractions in a haze of over-indulgence. Then we’d find a café or something to sit down for a rest, where we’d end up sampling a little more Czech cuisine. Augh! I blame the favourable exchange rate and the much lower cost of dining out in Prague.





The stunning Charles Bridge (Karlův most) was built in the 14th century and is lined with 30 Baroque statues. That’s my rip-off of artistic bridge shots from one of the many itinerant vendors along its 500+m length. We spent a long time crossing the Vltava river looking at Prague Castle behind us and Old Town ahead; that’s the Old Town Tower that guards the bridge on the right as the river flows. Wandering on it, wondering why the concept of a particular bridge over a river in Prague didn’t seem as new as it should be, I had a flash of useless-information brilliance. Didn’t the crooked-boss bad guy in Mission: Impossible fake his death to Tom Cruise’s character by falling over a bridge – into a river – in Prague? Heh.



This is Old Town (Staré Město), and Old Town Square (Staroměstské náměstí), which houses the Astronomical Clock (Pražský orloj) and the incredible Gothic Týn Cathedral (Týnský chrám). Imagine the difficulty we had in navigating: all the signs were in Czechy Czech! The only comprehensible exceptions were words like “steaky”, “deserty”, “toasty” and “toalety”.. And who could forget the magnetic “slevy”, or “sale”? It can be quite a cute language, Czech.


We also couldn’t understand how to read the Astronomical Clock, which shows the movements of celestial bodies. It started chiming 13h00 as we rested our not-so-weary feet around the corner. Caught unaware, we ran to see the celebrated apostles that march out every hour, but the tourist horde was in the way and we were too late anyway, so we went back to sit down some more.
[A propos to that, did you see the lunar eclipse last night? Around midnight over here all but a silver sliver of the full moon was dusky red in the perfectly cloudless sky. Pretty awesome. And happy 元宵节! ]
Prague has an extremely vibrant classical music scene (not an oxymoron). We attended one of the few that didn’t offer Vivaldi’s Four Seasons or Mozart’s Eine Kleine Nachtmusik, a dead tourist-trap giveaway. Our choice had nothing to do with the fact that it was also the only show that offered afternoon tea along with the programme, of course. Heh. The violin, cello and piano trio performed four pieces and an encore, all of them of an amazing standard. Pure, abundant talent on such casual display everywhere! Singapore has a looong way to go.


Josefov or the Jewish Quarter is probably the most well-preserved in Nazi Europe, because part of Hitler’s crazed genocide plan was to conserve one of the living areas of the “extinct race”. Saw my first synagogues here.







Prague’s all about the stunning architecture. Façades and more façades: Neo-Classical, Gothic, Renaissance, Art Nouveau. Other than Gothic, I can only vaguely guess at which is which.. The last one, the Municipal House, ought to be Art Nouveau. Spot the second gratuitous Mission: Impossible reference! ( John Woo pigeons.)





Prague Castle / Pražský hrad / the largest ancient castle in Europe was where we spent most of the second day. I mooched off one of the English tours in process and learnt that construction proper began in the 12th century (with renovations still ongoing, it seems). Pretty mind-boggling that it’s been there all this time. That it’s now filled with gaggles of tourists seems slightly undignified, but oh well.

We went up a hill to look at this miniature replica of the Eiffel Tower, not without an overwhelming sense of irony.




Finally, we trekked a long way up to the last “à ne pas manquer” must-see in the Lonely Planet guide: Vyšehrad or “V castle”. The tranquil castle grounds were a nice change from the bustle of Prague’s streets. It was dead quiet, in fact. The view from the top wasn’t too bad either.

One of the many cars that recalled the Czech Republic’s Communist past. Modern Capitalism is everywhere now, of course; we stocked up at Marks and Spencer on our last night in Prague. Haha. No such thing in France!
So I had the point driven home that good company can make or break a trip, which is not to say that the company was bad this time.
Děkuji Praha for an unforgettable visit, J for being part of the experience, and you for reading.

The National Museum (Národní muzeum) at night, seen from Wenceslas Square (Václavské náměstí), the site of Jan Palach’s self-immolation and the 1989 Velvet Revolution.
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